Which Leather Is Best for Shoes and Their Main Types

Leather continues to be used in shoemaking because it is durable, flexible, breathable, and can change shape of the foot with time.

It comes in many different types and the type of leather that’s used in shoes defines their quality and feel, as to how long they last, their comfort, how they age, and their appearance.

And there’s no "this-one or that-one” answer to the question when people ask “which leather is best for shoes.” It depends on different factors that decide which leather is best for shoes, such as :

• how often the shoes will be worn

• the environment they will be used in

• the level of formality required

• the buyer’s budget

If premium leather shoes give durability, they limit people due to their costs. But if softer leather shoes offer more comfort, they’re not as durable as the premium option. 

This article explains leathers used for making shoes. We’ll explain the main types of leather used in footwear and their quality difference. Understanding these differences will help you choose the right leather shoes for yourself.

Leather Basics: What Leather Means in Shoemaking

Leather is a natural material for shoes and many other items. It’s made from animal hides that’s processed to prevent decay and improve its durability.

Leather is used in making shoes because it offers strength and flexibility. These two qualities are very important because they enable your shoes to support your foot and change as per your movements as time passes.

Good-quality leather can breathe, absorb moisture, and slowly mold to the wearer’s feet, which makes it very comfortable to use, compared to synthetic leather materials, which is human-made.

Raw animal hide is made into shoe leather through a process called tanning, which prevents hide from rotting and gives it the properties needed for footwear. Tanning is of two types in making shoe leather:

• Vegetable tanning: It uses plant-based tannins and is mostly used for making high-quality dress shoes. This tanning results in a more firm leather that lasts longer and develops a strong patina (which is a deep natural color).

• Chrome tanning: It uses mineral salts instead. It results in softer and more flexible leather that is capable of resisting water and stains better. It’s used for making comfortable shoes.

Leather goes through more processes like sanding, buffing, coating, and embossing, etc., after tanning, which shape its appearance and longevity.

But how do we know which leather is good and which is bad?

Leather is classified as high-quality or low-quality according to the part of the animal hide it is made from. Which part is used and how much of its natural structure is preserved define its quality. Some of these classifications are discussed below.

Main Types of Leather Used in Shoes

1. Full-Grain Leather: The Best Leather for Shoes

Full-grain leather is widely considered the highest-quality leather in shoemaking. It comes from the top layer of animal hide and retains its natural grain surface for a very long time. The outer layer it is made of is the strongest and most densely packed with fibers, so full-grain leather is superior in durability compared to other leather types.

A defining quality of full-grain leather is that it’s natural markings like pores and minor scars or wrinkles. These are signs that the leather has not been artificially corrected. Over time, full-grain leather develops a patina, which is a beautiful sheen and deepening of color caused by exposure to air, light, and natural oils of our hands. This aging process is greatly valued in quality leather-based items because it adds character rather than making the shoes look worn out.

Full-grain leather is also excellent in performance. It breathes better than lower-grade leathers, aside from being resistant to tearing and cracking. The breathability also allows moisture to seep through more easily. That’s why shoes made of this leather are more comfortable for long periods of wear.

However, this leather is very expensive because it’s limited and undergoes minimal processing compared to others.

Full-grain is used to make high-quality dress shoes, premium leather loafers, boots, and other formal footwear that’s designed for using for years. It’s considered the best choice for buyers who are willing to pay for longevity as well as an appearance that improves with age.

2. Top-Grain Leather: High Quality But Processed

Top-grain leather is the second-highest quality leather used in shoes. It also comes from the top layer of the hide like full-grain. But its surface is lightly sanded or buffed to remove natural imperfections.

Top-grain leather remains strong and durable, though slightly less so than full-grain leather. The sanding process removes a small portion of natural fiber density of the hide, which reduces breathability and long-term resilience to some extent. But it’s still significantly more durable than lower-grade leathers. Top-grain leather is also comfortable since it’s more processed, more than full-grain.

Go for top-grain leather if you want a balance of all qualities (appearance, comfort, and durability) but with a polished look.

3. Corrected-Grain and Genuine Leather: Mid-Range Options

Corrected-grain is made of hides that have undergone heavier surface treatment to remove visible flaws. It’s sanded down and coated over or embossed with an artificial texture, which creates a consistent look but reduces the leather’s natural strength and breathability.

“Genuine leather” is a term that causes confusion. It doesn’t mean “leather that is genuine.” Rather, it’s a type. The name sounds premium but it isn’t exactly high-quality, because “genuine leather” refers to leather made from the lower layers of the hide or from heavily processed material and offers lower durability. It is real leather but doesn’t have the aging qualities of full-grain and top-grain leather.

Shoes made from corrected-grain or genuine leather can be affordable and neat-looking when new but they wear out fast and crease visibly compared to higher-grade material. These also don’t develop a patina. Their surface coatings just wears out.

These leather types are suitable for occasional wear. Budget-conscious buyers may also opt for these, but they're not good for daily use.

4. Split Leather and Bonded Leather: Budget-Level Materials

Split leather is made from the bottom layers of hides when the top grain is removed. On its own, split leather is weaker and rougher in texture, so it is often coated or embossed to resemble higher-quality leather, which can look good at first, but it isn’t very strong so it wears down quickly.

Bonded leather is the cheapest-grade leather used in shoes. It is made from shredded leather fibers bonded together with adhesives and finished with a surface coating. Although it contains some real leather, its performance is closer to synthetic leather materials than natural leather.

Shoes made from split or bonded leather are generally inexpensive and have limited durability. They are prone to wear and tear like cracking and peeling or even losing shape with time.

These materials are best suited for short-term use and occasional wear where cost is the main consideration.

Suede and Nubuck: Stylish Yet Sensitive Leathers

Suede and nubuck have a soft and velvety texture, though both are different in construction and durability. Suede is made from the underside of the hide and has a fuzzy surface with a lighter and flexible feel. Nubuck is produced from the top grain of the hide that’s lightly buffed. It’s stronger than suede.

Both leathers are popular for casual and semi-formal shoes due to their relaxed look. They are commonly used in loafers and desert boots.

The drawback of these leather types is their sensitivity; both are quick to absorb moisture and stain more than smooth leather. And, without care, they lose their appearance especially in dusty or wet environments.

That’s why suede and nubuck shoes are best worn lightly and occasionally and are better kept style-focused rather than daily and heavy-duty wear. 

Choosing the Best Leather for Your Shoes

So, which leather is best for shoes?

It depends. The best leather for your shoes comes down to how and where you’ll be wearing them.

• If you want shoes for formal shoes: opt for full-grain or top-grain leather. It’s the most reliable choice due to its durability. It also gives a polished appearance and ages well.

• If you want shoes for occasional wear: suede or nubuck are suitable. Corrected-grain leather can work as well. Opt for these if you want comfort and visual appeal but know that they have limitations.

Shoes that you wear on daily basis benefit from leather that can withstand repeated flexing, which is why higher-grade smooth leathers are a a better option.

Your budget matters as well. The better the quality of leather, the more upfront costs you need to pay, though the shoes in that case last longer as well. The extended use may make it more economical over time. On the flip side, lower-grade leather shoes can be bought for cheaper prices but you may need to replace them sooner.

If you’re not familiar with different types of leather and how to identify them, check out our article on Mastering Leather: A Guide to Identifying Qualities of Leather in Men Shoes

Best Leather for Shoes - Ranked by Quality

Here’s how each leather type is ranked quality-wise if you’re looking forward to buying shoes based on the leather quality:

1. Full-grain leather: The best quality leather for premium shoes

• Made from the very top layer of the hide

• Not sanded or corrected

• Strongest, most durable, ages beautifully (develops patina)

• Used in premium shoes, boots, luxury goods

2. Top-grain leather: The second-best quality leather

• Top layer of the hide but lightly sanded to remove imperfections

• More uniform look than full-grain

• Slightly less durable, but still excellent

• Common in high-end footwear and bags

3. Nubuck: High-quality but delicate

• Full-grain leather sanded on the outside to create a velvety surface

• Soft, luxurious feel

• Weaker resistance to water and stains

• Technically better than suede, but less durable than smooth full/top-grain

4. Corrected-Grain / Genuine Leather: Mid-quality leather

• Heavily sanded and treated to hide flaws

• Often embossed with artificial grain

• “Genuine leather” is a marketing term, not a quality guarantee

• Durable enough, but lacks natural character

5. Split Leather: Lower quality structural leather

• Taken from the lower layers of the hide

• Fibrous and weaker

• Often coated or painted to mimic better leather

• Used in cheaper shoes and accessories

6. Suede: Soft but weak

• Made from split leather (inner side of the hide)

• Comfortable and stylish, but fragile

• Poor water and abrasion resistance

• Chosen for looks, not longevity

7. Bonded Leather: Lowest quality

• Made from leather scraps glued together

• Contains very little real leather

• Cracks, peels, and fails quickly

• Should be avoided for shoes

Conclusion

How good your leather shoes depend on their leather quality. But there are many different kinds of leather you can choose from. So, which leather is best for shoes? The leather that’s best for shoes your comes down to some factors, including how and where you’ll wear them and your budget. Go for full- or top-grain leathers if you want leather shoes for formal wear with good durability. Otherwise you can choose less costly lower-grade leathers like suede and nubuck. These are good for occasional wears but not for daily and require care and maintenance.